|
The
creative gastronomy of farmers
Local
products of Le Marche can’t be just defined as “regional products”.
They must be included in a wider definition.
In fact they should be considered as part of the tradition of Central
Marche (from the Adriatic Coast to the Tirrenian Sea).
Emilia Romagna. Toscana, Marche, Lazio, Umbria have in fact all shared for
500-600 years the same socio-economic background characterized by
tenancies and by the religious influence of the Papal State.
The
Catholic Church influenced also the alimentary habits. It banned the
partaking of pork on some days, imposed days of abstinence and fasting.
These alimentary limitations covered almost half year. Nowadays some of
these limitations still exist. Abstinence from meat on eves is in fact a
rooted habit.
Religious influence has anyway also had benefits in the tradition. Thanks
to monasteries in fact the culture of vine yards and olive groves have
survived throughout the centuries in central Italy.
The wont of drinking wine mixed with water takes its origins in the habits
of the monks. Almost all the ingredients of the local cuisine were
anciently produced in the numberless farm houses now turned into
country-houses to try keep the tradition and peculiarity of the area
untouched.
Nowadays
Italian food has been standardized. Local dishes have in fact melted into
a national gastronomy.
The central area has been more conservative than the others and has
managed to keep a lot of traditions alive especially on special occasions.
Such phenomenon has interested sweets and pastries most; in particular the
ones related to religious feasts. “Fave da morto” for example, made on
the first days of November (days devoted to the remembrance of the dead
loved ones).
“Pecorelle” on 6th of January, “Castagnole” and
“Frittata alla mentuccia” usually made on Easter are other remarkable
examples.
Truffles and mushrooms are much used in the making of local dishes as well
as the trout, that flourish in the waters of the Esino river.
Particular
and traditional pastry of the village of Serra San Quirico is the famous
Calcione. t is made of flour, eggs, pecorino cheese and lemon. It may seem an
audacious receipt, but it is really special.
Photography:
Alessio Brocanelli
Sponsored by
Comune
di Serra San Quirico
© 2006 Liberation Ventures Ltd.
|